Roth's Westside Steakhouse has received reviews from several sources. Here are some of them:
| West Side Spirit - January 22, 2004 |
"Some people - and guides - think a trip to Brooklyn is necessary to get a good piece of meat in this city. Those people
clearly haven't paid a visit to Roth's Westside Steakhouse, on Columbus Avenue at 93rd Street.
Owner Marc Roth, who lives at 56th Street and First Avenue, opened the steakhouse about three years ago. Just recently he took
over the neighboring space and opened the Grill Room, which features Italian fare in addition to the steak menu. Penne a la vodka
is a reasonable $11.50, or you can upgrade to the veal Milanese for only $5 more. Entrees in the steakhouse run between $18 and $35
(the menu's most expensive entree, the porterhouse, costs $70 but feeds two - and then some).
The decor in the steakhouse is rustic and unpretentious. Thick, rough-cut beams arch across a white ceiling and grid the walls and
support columns. Live music is a staple most nights, and it thankfully accommodates dinner conversation without any strain on the vocal cords.
A glance at the weekly schedule, which along with specials adorns a large, black chalkboard on the back wall, shows that
Annette St. John, Frank Senior, Jacob Melchior and Bill Wurtzel are featured performers.
Service fits the atmosphere, in that Roth's makes every attempt at making guests feel comfortable and attended to. It's
a place you can relax with a date, catch up with the family or talk trash with your friends. But don't let the down-to-earth atmosphere
fool you, because the food is tops. Chef Matt Lavey is one of the original founders of the Angelo and Maxie's steakhouse and formerly worked
at Time Cafe. His experience and talent are evident throughout the menu.
On one early-winter evening, oysters were cold, briny bursts of the pacific, accompanied by a choice of two sauces, cocktail and a
vinegary mignonette. Both were delicious - the cocktail chunkier than normal, with a nice bite of horseradish, and the mignonette light and
tart - but the bivalves held their own, spectacularly, when eaten unadorned. The wise diner will also sample Westside's crab cakes,
which for once let the shellfish speak for itself. The meat was dense and feathery, lemon prevailed - rather than overwhelming spices -
and there wasn't one ounce of thick, crusty fried breading to contend with. These crab cakes were lightly pan-fried, which let the subtle
flavor of the meat come through. The accompanying coleslaw, sweet and crunchy, played well with the delicate, savory crab. "It's probably
the best crab cake I've ever had," said my fellow diner.
Roth's steak is top choice. The porterhouse and T-bone cuts are aged 21-27 days, which tenderizes the meat and intensifies its flavor.
Selecting one of these fine cuts is recommended to fully experience a Westside Steakhouse dinner. We went with the porterhouse, which has
filet mignon on one side of the bone and sirloin on the other. Both were tender, juicy and velvety, but the sirloin won me over with its rich flavor
and deliciously charred outer layer.
Sides did this fine cut of meat justice. Spinach came cooked al dente, its bitter flavor countered nicely by the addition of a few sweet,
buttery mushrooms, and the smooth mashed potatoes were a garlic-lovers dream. Nor did desserts disappoint. Tiramisu, layered with a thick and rich cream filling,
embraces its espresso origins, and the apple crisp is not to be missed. Warm oozing apples are encased in a dense, flaky crust that tastes almost like mom's butter cookies.
A scoop of vanilla trickling over this decadent pastry is the perfect topping.
A certain steakhouse east of Manhattan, with a name evocative of a handgun, may enjoy a near-iconic reputation, but with Roth's
Westside Steakhouse in the neighborhood, suddenly riding the B/C to West 96th Street makes at least as much sense as a Brooklyn bound J/M/Z."
By: Charlotte Eichna
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| Forbes - December 9, 2003 |
"Roth's Westside Steakhouse - 680 Columbus Ave., at 93rd St. (Tel.: 280-4103). An old-fashioned steak house-cum-jazz-spot that's
comfortable and pleasant. Porterhouse steak for two is delectable, fried calamari is wonderful, and the crab cakes are truly filled with crab.
Deserts are devine."
By: Eatery Expert Tom Jones and colleagues Patrick Cooke and Monie Begley, as well as brothers Bob, Kip and Tim.
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| The Washington Post - March 30, 2003 |
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"Roth's Steak House (680 Columbus Ave. at 93rd Street). On Saturdays and Sundays, Roth's features jazz trios, including a singer, from noon
to 4 P.M. The menu is simple - pancakes ($8), Caesar salad ($8, or $2 more with grilled chicken), steak sandwiches ($11) or a very
tasty salad with heaps of veggies and grilled steak strips ($10) - and the ambiance is relaxed, with flagstone floors, old-fashioned-
looking paintings and little lamps with faux leopard-skin shades on the bar."
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| Columbia Daily Spectator - March 10, 2003 |
"Steak and Savvy Come Uptown, With All the Fixings to Match"
"Remember the name Marc Roth. The dynamic owner of Roth's West Side Steakhouse--formerly Montana--knows how to do things right.
According to Roth, 28, "we don't mess around here." From his plastic business cards, to his suave table-side manner, Roth is a
restaurateur through and through. It shows, and his first restaurant is a success due to his careful supervision and attention
to detail."
"Traditionally, Midtown has been the domain of steak houses. By introducing a steakhouse to the Upper West Side, Roth has taken
a risk. Countless area restaurants have come and gone due to a notoriously picky--and residential--clientele. Yet Roth's West
Side Steakhouse has filled a distinct niche and done so with panache. Patrons come for the live jazz, the unpretentious
ambiance, the welcoming service, and--above all--the food."
"When it comes to food, the little things are what set a steakhouse apart from its peers--like the fact that the French Onion
Soup Gratinee ($7) is made with veal broth, rather than beef broth; or the indulgent description of the Lump Crab Cake ($12).
In the same breath, our waiter called it "critically acclaimed," and "better than Maryland's," before launching into a
meticulous rundown of its ingredients: 95 percent crab, two and a half percent cracker, and mayonnaise."
"Delightful frills even accompany the steak. Waiters parade the raw cuts of USDA Prime before your eyes, reciting the
location, distinguishing features, and age of the meat. Ever wonder what the difference is between a Sirloin and a Ribeye?
Want to know the placement of each cut in a Porterhouse or a T-bone? No less impressive is the ultimate presentation of the
meat, cooked to your specifications. In addition to the a-la-carte sides, each plate comes with a selection of three steak
sauces--Bear Mountain Bleu, House Steak Sauce, and Asian Sesame Ginger. Though purists may pass, the triumvirate offers
striking counterpoints to your steak of choice."
"Nor will the steak fail to please. Our T-bone ($27, aged), and Delmonico ($25)--a boneless ribeye--posed significant
challenges merely in the size of the portions. As expected, the filet from the T-bone was most tender, but least flavorful.
The Ribeye was juicy--charred on the outside and succulent within. The sides were less-than-knockout, however, as we tried the
Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes ($5), and the Sautéed Mushroom Caps ($5) in a beef broth. Each was standard, and perhaps found
its way to the menus as a begrudging steakhouse requisite."
"The wine list was adequate, though I was upset to find the Australian Shiraz unavailable. In its stead, I hesitantly ordered
a French wine--but politics is not the domain of this column. The wine, a 1999 St. Emillon Grand Cru ($12) was subtle, dry,
and smooth. My guest sampled the Conflict Martini ($9) and was unimpressed--its pineapple essence grew monotonous after a few
sips."
"The dessert, on the other hand, picked up the theme of large portions and rich flavors. Although the Chocolate Tart was more
chocolate than tart, it was an indulgent way to finish an evening. The Warm--rather, hot--Apple Crisp is large enough for two,
and contains an elaborate layering of flavors and textures. A bulbous, melting scoop of vanilla ice cream dripped cool relief
into the nutty cinnamon apples, and the wafting steam was irresistible. Against the backdrop of Roth's comfortable lodge-style
environment, the dish is a wonderful way to end a romantic evening."
"If it is romance you seek, look no further than Roth's, especially on a pleasant spring evening. Within walking distance of
Columbia, the steakhouse also has a quaint terrace for outdoor enjoyment. Moreover, the nightly jazz band will play to suit
your occasion. No less than twice during the evening, a mellow "Happy Birthday" wafted over the dinner crowd. Camera flashes
signaled the presence of families celebrating life events--think graduation--and amorous couples clinked glasses festively.
Marc Roth has sculpted an atmosphere equally conducive to an end-of-the-year dinner, an upscale date, or a family celebration.
It is this--his knack for accommodation in all regards--that marks a skilled manager. Expect his future projects to carry the
same trademark qualities that make Roth's West Side Steakhouse a success."
By:Bradley Weinstein
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